Learning Center

Light at night

Ben — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 19:36:16 GMT

A digital photo is comprised light collected by the image sensor. A properly exposed image can be a lot of light in a short amount of time, or a little light in a long amount of time. With a little creativity you can use a mixture of a both in the same exposure, let me explain. <o:p></o:p>

When taking a picture at night the shutter needs to be open for a relatively long time for the image sensor to collect enough light. What ever light is collected in the amount of time the shutter is open will be recorded. This is the reason streaks of light are in the place of a car going down the road. <o:p></o:p>

<v:shapetype coordsize="21600,21600" o:spt="75" o:preferrelative="t" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" filled="f" stroked="f" id="_x0000_t75"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><v:path o:extrusionok="f" gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect"></v:path><o:lock v:ext="edit" aspectratio="t"></o:lock></v:shapetype><v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\landon\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\09\clip_image001.jpg" o:href="http://photoburbia.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Wikis.Components.Files/learning_5F00_center/Night-Streaks.jpg"></v:imagedata><o:p></o:p>

You can use this technique to "paint" a picture with light using a flashlight.Picture by User "Darwin" by permission. (16min exposure, painted trees with a flashlight for a few seconds.) <o:p></o:p>

On the other hand when taking a picture with a flash, only a short amount of time is needed to record the image.<o:p></o:p>

<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\landon\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\09\clip_image004.jpg" o:href="http://photoburbia.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Wikis.Components.Files/learning_5F00_center/shutterstock_5F00_3146373.jpg"></v:imagedata><o:p></o:p>

With a little practice both ambient (existing) and artificial (flash) light can be used in the same exposure. Many cameras and most hotshoe flashes have a trailing curtain sync mode. This means that the flash will not fire until the shutter is about to close. This mode can be used at night to properly expose the ambient light then right before the shutter closes the flash will fire illuminating the foreground.<o:p></o:p>

<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\landon\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\09\clip_image006.jpg" o:href="http://photoburbia.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Wikis.Components.Files/learning_5F00_center/shutterstock_5F00_2151264.jpg"></v:imagedata><o:p></o:p>

For you light painters, you can paint away and then the flash will fire showing the illustrator. (picture comming soon).<o:p></o:p>

This same technique can be used with a regular flash setting, but the flash will be at the beginning or sometimes middle of the exposure.<o:p></o:p>

Experiment and have fun.<o:p></o:p>

Please let me know if you have any questions or suggestions you might have to make this lesson better.<o:p></o:p>

Lesson donated by Landon general manager of QuickPro LLC (video training) and Photoburbia.com.<o:p></o:p>

Light at night

Landon — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 16:23:37 GMT

You can use this technique to "paint" a picture with light using a flashlight.Picture by User "Darwin" by permission. (16min exposure, painted trees with a flashlight for a few seconds.) <o:p></o:p>

On the other hand when taking a picture with a flash, only a short amount of time is needed to record the image.<o:p></o:p>

For you light painters, you can paint away and then the flash will fire showing the illustrator. (picture comming soon).<o:p></o:p>

This same technique can be used with a regular flash setting, but the flash will be at the beginning or sometimes middle of the exposure.<o:p></o:p>

Experiment and have fun.<o:p></o:p>

Please let me know if you have any questions or suggestions you might have to make this lesson better.<o:p></o:p>

Lesson donated by Landon general manager of QuickPro LLC (video training) and Photoburbia.com.<o:p></o:p>

Light at night

Landon — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 16:23:36 GMT

You can use this technique to "paint" a picture with light using a flashlight.Picture by User "Darwin" by permission. (16min exposure, painted trees with a flashlight for a few seconds.) <o:p></o:p>

On the other hand when taking a picture with a flash, only a short amount of time is needed to record the image.<o:p></o:p>

For you light painters, you can paint away and then the flash will fire showing the illustrator. (picture comming soon).<o:p></o:p>

This same technique can be used with a regular flash setting, but the flash will be at the beginning or sometimes middle of the exposure.<o:p></o:p>

Experiment and have fun.<o:p></o:p>

Please let me know if you have any questions or suggestions you might have to make this lesson better.<o:p></o:p>

Lesson donated by Landon general manager of QuickPro LLC (video training) and Photoburbia.com.<o:p></o:p>

Light at night

Landon — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 16:21:27 GMT

<v:shapetype coordsize="21600,21600" o:spt="75" o:preferrelative="t" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" filled="f" stroked="f" id="_x0000_t75"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><v:path o:extrusionok="f" gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect"></v:path><o:lock v:ext="edit" aspectratio="t"></o:lock></v:shapetype><v:shape type="#_x0000_t75" style="width: 300pt; height: 213pt;" id="_x0000_i1025"><v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\landon\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\09\clip_image001.jpg" o:href="http://photoburbia.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Wikis.Components.Files/learning_5F00_center/Night-Streaks.jpg"></v:imagedata></v:shape><o:p></o:p>

You can use this technique to "paint" a picture with light using a flashlight.<o:p></o:p>

<v:shape type="#_x0000_t75" style="width: 300pt; height: 199.5pt;" id="_x0000_i1026"><v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\landon\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\09\clip_image003.jpg" o:href="http://photoburbia.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Wikis.Components.Files/learning_5F00_center/LightPaint1.jpg"></v:imagedata></v:shape><o:p></o:p>

Picture by User "Darwin" by permission. (16min exposure, painted trees with a flashlight for a few seconds.) <o:p></o:p>

On the other hand when taking a picture with a flash, only a short amount of time is needed to record the image.<o:p></o:p>

<v:shape type="#_x0000_t75" style="width: 300pt; height: 198.75pt;" id="_x0000_i1027"><v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\landon\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\09\clip_image004.jpg" o:href="http://photoburbia.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Wikis.Components.Files/learning_5F00_center/shutterstock_5F00_3146373.jpg"></v:imagedata></v:shape><o:p></o:p>

<v:shape type="#_x0000_t75" style="width: 225pt; height: 150pt;" id="_x0000_i1028"><v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\landon\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\09\clip_image006.jpg" o:href="http://photoburbia.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Wikis.Components.Files/learning_5F00_center/shutterstock_5F00_2151264.jpg"></v:imagedata></v:shape><o:p></o:p>

For you light painters, you can paint away and then the flash will fire showing the illustrator. (picture comming soon).<o:p></o:p>

This same technique can be used with a regular flash setting, but the flash will be at the beginning or sometimes middle of the exposure.<o:p></o:p>

Experiment and have fun.<o:p></o:p>

Please let me know if you have any questions or suggestions you might have to make this lesson better.<o:p></o:p>

Lesson donated by Landon general manager of QuickPro LLC (video training) and Photoburbia.com.<o:p></o:p>

Light at night

Landon — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 16:04:05 GMT

<o:p></o:p>

You can use this technique to "paint" a picture with light using a flashlight.

<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>Picture by User "Darwin" by permission. (16min exposure, painted trees with a flashlight for a few seconds.)

On the other hand when taking a picture with a flash, only a short amount of time is needed to record the image.

<o:p></o:p>

With a little practice both ambeint (existing) and artificial (flash) light can be used in the same exposure. Many cameras and most hotshoe flashes have a trailing curtain sync mode. This means that the flash will not fire until the shutter is about to close. This mode can be used at night to properly expose the ambient light then right before the shutter closes the flash will fire illuminating the foreground.

<o:p></o:p>

For you light painters, you can paint away and then the flash will fire showing the illustrator. (picture comming soon).

This same technique can be used with a regular flash setting, but the flash will be at the beginning or sometimes middle of the exposure.

<o:p> </o:p>Experiment and have fun.

Please let me know if you have any questions or suggestions you might have to make this lesson better.

Lesson donated by Landon general manager of QuickPro LLC (video training) and Photoburbia.com.

Night Light

Landon — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 16:29:47 GMT

You can use this technique to "paint" a picture with light using a flashlight.<o:p></o:p>

Picture by User "Darwin" by permission. (16min exposure, painted trees with a flashlight for a few seconds.) <o:p></o:p>

On the other hand when taking a picture with a flash, only a short amount of time is needed to record the image.<o:p></o:p>

For you light painters, you can paint away and then the flash will fire showing the illustrator. (picture comming soon).<o:p></o:p>

This same technique can be used with a regular flash setting, but the flash will be at the beginning or sometimes middle of the exposure.<o:p></o:p>

Experiment and have fun.<o:p></o:p>

Please let me know if you have any questions or suggestions you might have to make this lesson better.Lesson donated by Landon general manager of QuickPro LLC (video training) QuickPro.com and Photoburbia.com.<o:p></o:p>

night

Landon — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 16:26:08 GMT

<v:shapetype coordsize="21600,21600" o:spt="75" o:preferrelative="t" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" filled="f" stroked="f" id="_x0000_t75"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><v:path o:extrusionok="f" gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect"></v:path><o:lock v:ext="edit" aspectratio="t"></o:lock></v:shapetype><v:shape type="#_x0000_t75" style="width: 300pt; height: 213pt;" id="_x0000_i1025"><v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\landon\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\11\clip_image001.jpg" o:href="http://photoburbia.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Wikis.Components.Files/learning_5F00_center/Night-Streaks.jpg"></v:imagedata></v:shape><o:p></o:p>

You can use this technique to "paint" a picture with light using a flashlight.<o:p></o:p>

<v:shape type="#_x0000_t75" style="width: 300pt; height: 199.5pt;" id="_x0000_i1026"><v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\landon\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\11\clip_image003.jpg" o:href="http://photoburbia.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Wikis.Components.Files/learning_5F00_center/LightPaint1.jpg"></v:imagedata></v:shape><o:p></o:p>

Picture by User "Darwin" by permission. (16min exposure, painted trees with a flashlight for a few seconds.) <o:p></o:p>

On the other hand when taking a picture with a flash, only a short amount of time is needed to record the image.<o:p></o:p>

<v:shape type="#_x0000_t75" style="width: 300pt; height: 198.75pt;" id="_x0000_i1027"><v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\landon\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\11\clip_image004.jpg" o:href="http://photoburbia.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Wikis.Components.Files/learning_5F00_center/shutterstock_5F00_3146373.jpg"></v:imagedata></v:shape><o:p></o:p>

<v:shape type="#_x0000_t75" style="width: 225pt; height: 150pt;" id="_x0000_i1028"><v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\landon\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\11\clip_image006.jpg" o:href="http://photoburbia.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Wikis.Components.Files/learning_5F00_center/shutterstock_5F00_2151264.jpg"></v:imagedata></v:shape><o:p></o:p>

For you light painters, you can paint away and then the flash will fire showing the illustrator. (picture comming soon).<o:p></o:p>

This same technique can be used with a regular flash setting, but the flash will be at the beginning or sometimes middle of the exposure.<o:p></o:p>

Experiment and have fun.<o:p></o:p>

Please let me know if you have any questions or suggestions you might have to make this lesson better.<o:p></o:p>

Using Shutter Speed

Rob — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 21:54:04 GMT

Shutter Speed

(Brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Choosing a correct shutter speed for the appropriate situation can help you add depth and creativity to your pictures. Shutter speeds can be either very fast or very slow. The shutter speed on your camera ranges from 30 to 1/4000 (meaning the shutter opens from 30 seconds to 1/4000th of a second). Let’s talk about these speeds for a moment. The most frequently used shutter speeds lie within the range of 1/60 to 1/500th of a second. This is a typical range used for everyday picture taking. Camera speeds slower than 1/60 will normally require a tripod to avoid blurring the entire picture. Faster shutter speeds are found in the range of 1/500 to 1/4000.

Here is an image that was captured with a fast shutter speed. You can actually see the helicopter's blades and it does not capture much motion.

This image was taken with a slow shutter speed.

When the camera displays shutter speed with a second marker, this tells the user that this is a measurement of seconds. When no “seconds marker” is displayed this is considered a measurement of fractions of a second. For example 8” with a seconds marker is 8 seconds, the number 8 without a second’s marker is one 8th of a second. You can view this information on the LCD panel and through the camera’s viewfinder.

Let’s explore many of these options by completing the assignments.

Assignments

Head to a garden or even your backyard and locate a bug. Yes, a bug. If you have a pesky fly near your desk keep him in sight. Photograph the bug when in flight using a shutter speed of 1/2000 to 1/4000. Continue to shoot the bug; shooting at these speeds should freeze the bug’s wings.

Go to a local sporting even to capture some action. Don’t worry about your image’s composition for this assignment. Use shutter speeds between 1/500 and 1/1000 to freeze the action at this sporting event. Try and get as close to the subjects as your can to get the best return of your shutter speed experimentation.

From previous assignments you know what modes work best for portraits. Round up your subject from the previous assignment, or a different subject if necessary, and shoot them in manual mode using a shutter speed of 1/125 to 1/500. If you are getting the hang of this bring multiple subjects into your frame.

Next, find a source of running water. You are going to blur the falling water, an added effect. You can even use your kitchen sink for this assignment. Set your shutter speed between 1/8 and 1/60. Continue taking shots until the desired effect is achieved. Move between subjects finding a waterfall or a fountain.

You also learned from past assignments what mode works best for shooting at night. Shutter speed affects also affects this quality. Find an ideal subject after sunset and shoot it with shutter speeds between 8” and 30.” Pay close attention to the amount of light being let in with the different shutter speeds and the amount of blur this shutter speed adds to light.

Using Shutter Speed

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 22:24:00 GMT

Shutter Speed

(Brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Here is an image that was captured with a fast shutter speed. You can actually see the helicopter's blades and it does not capture much motion.

This image was taken with a slow shutter speed

Let’s explore many of these options by completing the assignments.

Assignments

Head to a garden or even your backyard and locate a bug. Yes, a bug. If you have a pesky fly near your desk keep him in sight. Photograph the bug when in flight using a shutter speed of 1/2000 to 1/4000. Continue to shoot the bug; shooting at these speeds should freeze the bug’s wings.

Go to a local sporting even to capture some action. Don’t worry about your image’s composition for this assignment. Use shutter speeds between 1/500 and 1/1000 to freeze the action at this sporting event. Try and get as close to the subjects as your can to get the best return of your shutter speed experimentation.

From previous assignments you know what modes work best for portraits. Round up your subject from the previous assignment, or a different subject if necessary, and shoot them in manual mode using a shutter speed of 1/125 to 1/500. If you are getting the hang of this bring multiple subjects into your frame.

Next, find a source of running water. You are going to blur the falling water, an added effect. You can even use your kitchen sink for this assignment. Set your shutter speed between 1/8 and 1/60. Continue taking shots until the desired effect is achieved. Move between subjects finding a waterfall or a fountain.

You also learned from past assignments what mode works best for shooting at night. Shutter speed affects also affects this quality. Find an ideal subject after sunset and shoot it with shutter speeds between 8” and 30.” Pay close attention to the amount of light being let in with the different shutter speeds and the amount of blur this shutter speed adds to light.

Using Shutter Speed

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:06:31 GMT

Shutter Speed

(Brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Here is an image that was captured with a fast shutter speed. You can actually see the helicopter's blades and it does not capture much motion.

This image was taken with a slow shutter speed

Let’s explore many of these options by completing the assignments.

Assignments

Head to a garden or even your backyard and locate a bug. Yes, a bug. If you have a pesky fly near your desk keep him in sight. Photograph the bug when in flight using a shutter speed of 1/2000 to 1/4000. Continue to shoot the bug; shooting at these speeds should freeze the bug’s wings.

Go to a local sporting even to capture some action. Don’t worry about your image’s composition for this assignment. Use shutter speeds between 1/500 and 1/1000 to freeze the action at this sporting event. Try and get as close to the subjects as your can to get the best return of your shutter speed experimentation.

From previous assignments you know what modes work best for portraits. Round up your subject from the previous assignment, or a different subject if necessary, and shoot them in manual mode using a shutter speed of 1/125 to 1/500. If you are getting the hang of this bring multiple subjects into your frame.

Next, find a source of running water. You are going to blur the falling water, an added effect. You can even use your kitchen sink for this assignment. Set your shutter speed between 8 and 60. Continue taking shots until the desired effect is achieved. Move between subjects finding a waterfall or a fountain.

You also learned from past assignments what mode works best for shooting at night. Shutter speed affects also affects this quality. Find an ideal subject after sunset and shoot it with shutter speeds between 8” and 30.” Pay close attention to the amount of light being let in with the different shutter speeds and the amount of blur this shutter speed adds to light.

Using Your Lens

Rob — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 21:45:46 GMT

Lenses

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Lenses can add creative control to your photography. Generally speaking, there are two different kinds of lenses; telephoto and fixed or prime lenses. Telephoto lenses have a range of focal lengths to choose from; while fixed, or prime lenses only have one focal length to choose from. Many steps have been taken to improve the quality of telephoto lenses. However fixed lenses, though not as flexible as telephoto lenses, usually give greater clarity.

When buying lenses there are a couple of features you should be aware of before purchasing. The first being focal length. Lens zoom capabilities are measured in focal lengths. The smaller the focal length, the wider angle the picture will be. Wide angle lenses range from 1mm-24mm. “Normal” lenses range in the 24mm-125mm range. Zoom lenses range from 125mm and up. The larger the number the greater the zoom capability.

The lens you shoot with will also affect the general look of your picture. Sometimes it’s more convenient or practical to simply change the lens instead of actually moving closer to or further away from your subject.

One great advantage of a digital SLR camera is that you can attach different lenses depending upon your needs and circumstances.

Assignments

Even if you do not have access to different lenses practice these assignments with your lens and become comfortable with its features.

Practice taking pictures at different levels of zoom. Zoom in and out and notice the difference this gives to the point of view in your images.

Focus is an essential part of your photographs, as we learned with image sharpness and quality. Your lens is a key part to achieving this focus. Practice photographing anything near you. Continue to shoot until optimal focus is received. If you are photographing a person or an animal be sure the eyes are in crystal clear focus.

If you have a telephoto lens take a picture of landscape with your telephoto lens and with your normal lens. Compare the differences in clarity between the two lenses.

Using Your Lens

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 23:06:15 GMT

Lenses

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Lenses can add creative control to your photography. Generally speaking, there are two different kinds of lenses; telephoto and fixed or prime lenses. Telephoto lenses have a range of focal lengths to choose from; while fixed, or prime lenses only have one focal length to choose from. Many steps have been taken to improve the quality of telephoto lenses, however fixed lenses, though not as flexible as telephoto lenses, usually give greater clarity.

One great advantage of a digital SLR camera is that you can attach different lenses depending upon your needs and circumstances.

Assignments

Even if you do not have access to different lenses practice these assignments with your lens and become comfortable with its features.

Practice taking pictures at different levels of zoom. Zoom in and out and notice the difference this gives to the point of view in your images.

Focus is an essential part of your photographs, as we learned with image sharpness and quality. Your lens is a key part to achieving this focus. Practice photographing anything near you. Continue to shoot until optimal focus is received. If you are photographing a person or an animal be sure the eyes are in crystal clear focus.

If you have a telephoto lens take a picture of landscape with your telephoto lens and with your normal lens. Compare the differences in clarity between the two lenses.

Using Your Lens

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 23:05:34 GMT

Lenses

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Lenses can add creative control to your photography. Generally speaking, there are two different kinds of lenses; telephoto and fixed or prime lenses. Telephoto lenses have a range of focal lengths to choose from; while fixed, or prime lenses only have one focal length to choose from. Many steps have been taken to improve the quality of telephotos, however fixed lenses, though not as flexible as telephoto lenses, usually give greater clarity.

One great advantage of a digital SLR camera is that you can attach different lenses depending upon your needs and circumstances.

Assignments

Even if you do not have access to different lenses practice these assignments with your lens and become comfortable with its features.

Practice taking pictures at different levels of zoom. Zoom in and out and notice the difference this gives to the point of view in your images.

Focus is an essential part of your photographs, as we learned with image sharpness and quality. Your lens is a key part to achieving this focus. Practice photographing anything near you. Continue to shoot until optimal focus is received. If you are photographing a person or an animal be sure the eyes are in crystal clear focus.

If you have a telephoto lens take a picture of landscape with your telephoto lens and with your normal lens. Compare the differences in clarity between the two lenses.

Using Your Lens

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 17:54:13 GMT

Lenses

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Lenses can add creative control to your photography. Generally speaking, there are two different kinds of lenses; telephoto and fixed or prime lenses. Telephoto lenses have a range of focal lengths to choose from, while fixed , or prime lenses only have one focal length to choose from. Many steps have been taken to improve the quality of telephotos, however fixed lenses, though not as flexible as telephoto lenses, usually give greater clarity.

One great advantage of a digital SLR camera is that you can attach different lenses depending upon your needs and circumstances.

Assignments

Even if you do not have access to different lenses practice these assignments with your lens and become comfortable with its features.

Practice taking pictures at different levels of zoom. Zoom in and out and notice the difference this gives to the point of view in your images.

Focus is an essential part of your photographs, as we learned with image sharpness and quality. Your lens is a key part to achieving this focus. Practice photographing anything near you. Continue to shoot until optimal focus is received. If you are photographing a person or an animal be sure the eyes are in crystal clear focus.

If you have a telephoto lens take a picture of landscape with your telephoto lens and with your normal lens. Compare the differences in clarity between the two lenses.

Flash Basics

Rob — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 21:31:46 GMT

Flash Basics

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

As you learn to notice the way that light affects your photos, you’ll find that compensation for poor lighting is often needed, whether it’s outdoors in backlight light, or indoors with poor ambient light. Your camera’s built-in flash is a fast, easy, and convenient way to get the light you need to take properly exposed pictures even in poor lighting conditions.

Using your flash will allow you to use a fast shutter speed and a smaller aperture (so that everything is in focus) without having to use a higher ISO. When you’re using your flash at an indoor family event, you can use low ISO’s ranging from 100 to 400 and get properly exposed pictures with very little noise.

Taking pictures outdoors is also an idea time to use your flash. Since it is not common to shoot subjects in direct sunlight due to squinting, shooting under a shade tree and using a flash can provide adequate lighting. Night time also provides an ideal time to use your flash. If you are outdoors after sunset your flash can be a helpful tool for adequate lighting.

When shooting in different settings, keep in mind that the built-in flash on your digital camera has a range. Flash range refers to the distance where your flash is the most effective. Most built-in flashes have a range of approximately 3.5 to 14 feet. Stay within the recommended distance if you want your subject to be properly exposed. Check your camera manual for your camera’s flash range. Knowing this range can help you decide how close or how far to position yourself from the subject. If you are in the audience in a large auditorium, try moving closer to the stage in the aisle to put your flash to use.

Aside from turning manual flash mode on or off your camera offers two more flash modes. These modes are auto flash mode and auto red-eye reduction mode.

When you manually turn your flash on it can compensate for backlight of a subject when normally auto flash would detect the brightness of the backlight itself. Taking pictures with window light is a good example of when you will want to turn your flash off.

In auto flash mode your camera will do all the work for you. When your flash is in auto mode, the camera senses the lighting conditions and “decides” whether or not to fire the flash.

The auto red-eye reduction flash mode is the same as the auto flash mode, but fires a very small “pre-flash” before the photo is taken to help reduce red-eye in your subject. This flash mode is useful for occasions where you’ll be photographing people with very little ambient light.

Assignments

Attend an event held indoors such as a birthday, a family event, or a holiday gathering. Take pictures without your flash. Then, use your flash in auto flash mode during this same situation. Compare the images with a flash to the ones without a flash and you will notice that your camera’s flash will provide compensation and your pictures will appear more in focus with less noise.

Position subjects under a tree. Take a few pictures without using your camera’s built in flash and some using the flash. Notice the difference in shadows across the subject’s features when the flash is not used.

Position a group of people in a location where a flash is necessary, (in a shady area, indoors, or at night.) Place your subjects far apart from each other and take a few shots with the flash on. Now, position your subjects close together using the flash. Note the difference the flash makes with the position of the subjects.

Most importantly, experiment with the different flash modes in different scenarios. You will begin to feel comfortable and know when your camera’s built-in flash is necessary and for what situations.

Flash Basics

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:08:28 GMT

Flash Basics

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Aside from turning manual flash mode on or off your camera offers two more flash modes. These modes are auto flash mode and auto red-eye reduction mode.

When you manually turn your flash on can compensate for backlight of a subject when normally auto flash would detect the brightness of the backlight itself. Taking pictures with window light is a good example of when you will want to turn your flash off.

In auto flash mode your camera will do all the work for you. When your flash is in auto mode, the camera senses the lighting conditions and “decides” whether or not to fire the flash.

Assignments

Attend an event held indoors such as a birthday, a family event, or a holiday gathering. Take pictures without your flash. Then, use your flash in auto flash mode during this same situation. Compare the images with a flash to the ones without a flash and you will notice that your camera’s flash will provide compensation and your pictures will appear more in focus with less noise.

Position subjects under a tree. Take a few pictures without using your camera’s built in flash and some using the flash. Notice the difference in shadows across the subject’s features when the flash is not used.

Position a group of people in a location where a flash is necessary, (in a shady area, indoors, or at night.) Place your subjects far apart from each other and take a few shots with the flash on. Now, position your subjects close together using the flash. Note the difference the flash makes with the position of the subjects.

Most importantly, experiment with the different flash modes in different scenarios. You will begin to feel comfortable and know when your camera’s built-in flash is necessary and for what situations.

Shooting Sporting Events

Rob — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 21:16:05 GMT

Shooting Sporting Events

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Shooting sports can be very fun and exciting. As with macro photography there is certain equipment and tips to remember in order for your shots to come out just the way you saw the action.

First, like macro photography, having at least a 200mm lens will be very helpful to shoot sports photography. Daytime sports usually offer good natural light to work with, while it is often difficult to achieve prime light indoors, such as a gymnasium. These bad lighting conditions will require you to bump up your ISO. This may cause grain to your images and a fast lens will help with this.

Timing is important in sports photography. You want to anticipate the action and shoot before the action happens. Otherwise, you will see the aftermath of a certain play or steal and the ball may also be out of the frame. Anticipating action can capture some great facial expressions also.

Placement of you and your camera can also determine the quality of your images. Get as close to the action as you can, particularly on the sidelines. You should find yourself kneeling or crouching down to get to the level of play. This viewpoint will offer a great viewpoint for the action you are capturing.

Assignments

Remember to keep in mind the concepts you have learned from previous lessons. Shutter speed, aperture, and ISO affect all images and are necessary in sports photography.

First and foremost, head to an athletic event. Experiment with different angles for your first shots.

Next, find different viewpoints you think are appealing. Compare the action captured in these to action at eye level when you are kneeling.

Action is not the only thing to capture at a sporting event. Taking pictures of players on the sidelines, coaches, or even cheerleaders can help make for a great story. This is a great time to capture emotion and reactions.

Shooting Sporting Events

Rob — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 21:03:15 GMT

Shooting Sporting Events

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Shooting sports can be very fun and exciting. As with macro photography there is certain equipment and tips to remember in order for your shots to come out just the way you saw the action.

Assignments

Remember to keep in mind the concepts you have learned from previous lessons. Shutter speed, aperture, and ISO affect all images and are necessary in sports photography.

First and foremost, head to an athletic event. Experiment with different angles for your first shots.

Next, find different viewpoints you think are appealing. Compare the action captured in these to action at eye level when you are kneeling.

Action is not the only thing to capture at a sporting event. Taking pictures of players on the sidelines, coaches, or even cheerleaders can help make for a great story. This is a great time to capture emotion and reactions.

Shooting Sporting Events

Rob — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 21:02:36 GMT

Shooting Sporting Events

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Shooting sports can be very fun and exciting. As with macro photography there is certain equipment and tips to remember in order for your shots to come out just the way you saw the action.

Placement of yourself can also determine the quality of your images. Get as close to the action as you can, particularly on the sidelines. You should find yourself kneeling or crouching down to get to the level of play. This viewpoint will offer a great viewpoint for the action you are capturing.

Assignments

Remember to keep in mind the concepts you have learned from previous lessons. Shutter speed, aperture, and ISO affect all images and are necessary in sports photography.

First and foremost, head to an athletic event. Experiment with different angles for your first shots.

Next, find different viewpoints you think are appealing. Compare the action captured in these to action at eye level when you are kneeling.

Action is not the only thing to capture at a sporting event. Taking pictures of players on the sidelines, coaches, or even cheerleaders can help make for a great story. This is a great time to capture emotion and reactions.

Shooting Sporting Events

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:02:23 GMT

Shooting Sporting Events

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Shooting sports can be very fun and exciting. As with macro photography there is certain equipment and tips to remember in order for your shots to come out just the way you saw the action.

First, like macro photography, having at least a 200mm lens will be very helpful to shoot sports photography. Daytime sports usually offer good natural light to work with, while it is often difficult to achieve prime light indoors, such as a gymnasium. Outdoor shots will be easier These bad lighting conditions will require you to bump up your ISO. This may cause grain to your images and a fast lens will help with this.

Assignments

Remember to keep in mind the concepts you have learned from previous lessons. Shutter speed, aperture, and ISO affect all images and are necessary in sports photography.

First and foremost, head to an athletic event. Experiment with different angles for your first shots.

Next, find different viewpoints you think are appealing. Compare the action captured in these to action at eye level when you are kneeling.

Action is not the only thing to capture at a sporting event. Taking pictures of players on the sidelines, coaches, or even cheerleaders can help make for a great story. This is a great time to capture emotion and reactions.

Composition

Rob — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 20:57:26 GMT

Composition

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

The placement of objects is critical if you want to make your photos look finished and artistic. It’s a good idea to showcase the main subject. You can make the subject stand out by adjusting the placement of the subject, the lighting, or the focus. You can even vary the background and foreground elements. Practice seeing what these different principles can do for your photos.

Different techniques to consider when composing your photographs: the rule of thirds, scale, framing, and patterns.

The rule of thirds keeps a subject from being placed in the middle of your frame. Divide your frame into three sections vertically and horizontally. A subject falling on the intersecting points follows the rule of thirds. This is often very important with landscapes. Your horizon line should be placed on the bottom or top third of your photograph.

Adding a scale to your images can be very pleasing to the eye and interrupt confusion. For example, if you are photographing tall redwood trees a house or barn next to the trees gives them scale. The same goes for the opposite. If you are photographing a rather large spider placing an object next to it gives the viewer a scale and is less confusing.

Naturally framing a subject is also an appealing part of composition. Use elements within the photograph to frame your image. This can be power lines framing a corn field or a window framing a couple.

After practicing with using line in your photographs, you will begin to notice patterns. Spider webs and corn fields are good examples of a pattern.

Two more important elements of good photography are angle and magnification.

You can move around to change the angle you’re taking the picture from. By doing this, you can shoot pictures from slightly above, below, or to the side of your subject to achieve just the right look. You can change the look even more by moving closer or farther away.

Close-ups are great, and you’ll want to include the eyes. Make sure they’re well-lit. Sometimes a full body shot or even a shot from farther back can help establish your location and situation, which may be just the look you’re going for. Practice changing your angle to get some really great shots.

You should also consider the orientation of your photo. Do you want a vertical image or a horizontal image? Some subjects look better vertically, and others horizontally. It depends upon the look and feel you’re going for.

Assignments

While completing each of these assignments keep in mind the orientation (vertical or horizontal) you want for your photos.

Photograph a sunset keeping the rule of thirds in mind. If the sky has beautiful colors you are wishing to portray then place your horizon line in the bottom third. Or, if the landscape underneath your sunrise or sunset is what you wish to capture then place your horizon line in the top third of your frame. Be sure to keep your horizon line straight and not tilted.

Find an image you would like to capture using the traits of scale. Get creative.

Now, photograph a naturally framed subject. This subject must be something other than a person.

Next, search for patterns. Keep in mind what you learned about the different types of lines when you are photographing different patterns. Also, remember that your patterns do not need to come solely from the use of lines.

Composition

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 19:45:46 GMT

Composition

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Different techniques to consider when composing your photographs: the rule of thirds, scale, framing, and patterns.

After practicing with using line in your photographs, you will begin to notice patterns. Spider webs and corn fields are good examples of a pattern.

Two more important elements of good photography are angle and magnification.

Assignments

While completing each of these assignments keep in mind the orientation (vertical or horizontal) you want for your photos.

Photograph a sunset keeping the rule of thirds in mind. If the sky has beautiful colors you are wishing to portray then place your horizon line in the bottom third. Or, if the landscape underneath your sunrise or sunset is what you wish to capture then place your horizon line in the top third of your frame. Be sure to keep your horizon line straight and not tilted.

Find an image you would like to capture using the traits of scale. Get creative.

Now, photograph a naturally framed subject. This subject must be something other than a person.

Next, search for patterns. Keep in mind what you learned about the different types of lines when you are photographing different patterns. Also, remember that your patterns do not need to come solely from the use of lines.

Composition

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:09:46 GMT

Composition

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Different techniques can with composing your photographs: the rule of thirds, scale, framing, and patterns.

After practicing with using line in your photographs, you will begin to notice patterns. Spider webs and corn fields are good examples of a pattern.

Two more important elements of good photography are angle and magnification.

Assignments

While completing each of these assignments keep in mind the orientation (vertical or horizontal) you want for your photos.

Photograph a sunset keeping the rule of thirds in mind. If the sky has beautiful colors you are wishing to portray then place your horizon line in the bottom third. Or, if the landscape underneath your sunrise or sunset is what you wish to capture then place your horizon line in the top third of your frame. Be sure to keep your horizon line straight and not tilted.

Find an image you would like to capture using the traits of scale. Get creative.

Now, photograph a naturally framed subject. This subject must be something other than a person.

Next, search for patterns. Keep in mind what you learned about the different types of lines when you are photographing different patterns. Also, remember that your patterns do not need to come solely from the use of lines.

Using Histograms

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 23:01:01 GMT

Histograms

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Histograms are very useful in any type of photography. A histogram is a type of graph showing how colors are distributed in an image. Deep shadows are represented on the left of the histogram and bright highlights are distributed on the right. The mid-tones are in between. The higher the tone reaches vertically, the more of that value in the image.

From darkest to lightest a histogram is separated into dynamic ranges. Your camera’s LCD menu can display a histogram after each image.

Histograms are available to help you assess the exposure of your images. Use it to decide if your shadows or highlights need to be enhanced. They are also helpful to ensure that you don’t lose detail in present highlights or shadows. Use the histogram as a tool to help your photography and exposures improve.

Assignments

The best way to understand histograms is to review a histogram after every image. (You camera should offer an option to view a thumbnail histogram for a few seconds after each shot.) This assignment requires you to take multiple shots in many different light settings. Capture images with highlights, some with overwhelming shadows, and some images with a mix of highlights and lowlights. Look at your histogram after each shot and compare it to the previous. This will also help you read histograms by defining which shades fit where and how you can improve your exposure.

Using Histograms

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:04:28 GMT

Histograms

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Histograms are very useful in any type of photography. A histogram is a type of graph showing how colors are distributed in an image. Deep shadows are represented on the right of the histogram and bright highlights are distributed on the right. The mid-tones are in between. The higher the tone reaches vertically, the more of that value in the image.

From darkest to lightest a histogram is separated into dynamic ranges. Your camera’s LCD menu can display a histogram after each image.

Assignments

The best way to understand histograms is to review a histogram after every image. (You camera should offer an option to view a thumbnail histogram for a few seconds after each shot.) This assignment requires you to take multiple shots in many different light settings. Capture images with highlights, some with overwhelming shadows, and some images with a mix of highlights and lowlights. Look at your histogram after each shot and compare it to the previous. This will also help you read histograms by defining which shades fit where and how you can improve your exposure.

White Balance Help

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 22:49:28 GMT

White Balance

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Understanding white balance in photography can greatly enhance your image’s appeal, especially when you are familiar with multiple light sources. Often times what you see in person to be white, your camera cannot. Thus, creates a color cast onto your images.
To correct this color cast, your camera needs to measure the white balance of a light source in terms of color temperature.
Color temperature measures the warmth and coolness of visible light in degrees Kelvin.

Higher Kelvin temperatures usually appear cool,

while lower temperatures appear warm, giving a yellowish cast

Your camera likely has an automatic white balance feature and allows select different lighting options. These automatic settings are useful for lighting conditions such as incandescent light, fluorescent light, daylight, cloudy, and shade. However, it is helpful to set a custom white balance yourself.

To set a custom white balance you can purchase a grey card from a local camera shop or simply use an object that is white under your current lighting situations. Access the custom white balance settings on your camera and photograph your white image. These settings can usually be saved an accessed in the future for correct white balance in similar lighting situations.

Assignments

• Photograph under conditions that would provide an unwanted color cast. A gymnasium often gives a yellow color cast. These images would have an incorrect white balance settings.

• Following this step-by-step process, set your camera’s custom white balance:
1. Purchase a white card from your local camera store, or use an object that is completely white.
2. Hold the white object into the same frame you will be taking the original image in.
3. Zoom in so only the white card is seen.
4. Set your cameras white balance to zero.
5. You should now have the ideal coloring for your image.

• Now, with your correct white balance set compare your new images to the images you first took and notice the difference.

White Balance Help

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 22:45:02 GMT

White Balance

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Higher Kelvin temperatures usually appear cool,

while lower temperatures appear warm, giving a yellowish cast

Assignments

• Photograph under conditions that would provide an unwanted color cast. A gymnasium often gives a yellow color cast. These images would have an incorrect white balance settings.

White Balance Help

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:05:05 GMT

White Balance

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Higher Kelvin temperatures usually appear cool,

while lower temperatures appear warm, giving a yellowish cast

Assignments

• Photograph under conditions that would provide an unwanted color cast. A gymnasium often gives a yellow color cast. These images would have an incorrect white balance settings.

Using ISO

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 22:17:11 GMT

ISO

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

The ISO setting affects the imaging sensor’s sensitivity to light. The higher the number, the less light that is required to properly expose the image sensor. You can either have the camera automatically choose the sensitivity, or you can set it manually.

It’s a good idea to set the ISO speed to suit the ambient light setting that you’re shooting in. When you increase the ISO speed (a higher number) for low light, a faster shutter speed can be used to avoid camera shake.

Set the ISO speed by pressing and holding the ISO button and while looking at the control panel and turn the main command dial to set the desired ISO speed.

Keep in mind that a higher ISO setting will introduce noise or grain into your images. An ISO setting that is too high for the shooting conditions will make the image lose quality, and you might even start to see particles in your picture.

These assignments will help you experiment with ISO settings to become more familiar with their range and control. The image sensor on your camera is very powerful—it gives you the flexibility to shoot in low-light conditions and still get amazing pictures.

Assignments

Just like shutter speed and aperture it is important to experiment with different settings. First, take a picture with intentional noise. To do this, select a very high ISO. You will notice a low quality image that seems to be pixilated.

Next, adjust your ISO according to the light you are shooting in. Use what you have already learned about aperture and shutter speed. Do not select an ISO that is too high this time. Review your images and compare the quality to your first set. There should be less noise and higher quality.

Using ISO

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:06:59 GMT

ISO

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Set the ISO speed by pressing and holding the ISO button and while looking at the control panel and turn the main command dial to set the desired ISO speed.

Assignments

Just like shutter speed and aperture it is important to experiment with different settings. First, take a picture with intentional noise. To do this, select a very high ISO. You will notice a low quality image that seems to be pixilated.

Next, adjust your ISO according to the light you are shooting in. Use what you have already learned about aperture and shutter speed. Do not select an ISO that is too high this time. Review your images and compare the quality to your first set. There should be less noise and higher quality.

Creating Image Sharpness

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:49:43 GMT

Image Sharpness

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Another important principle for taking a great picture is image sharpness.

Image sharpness is affected by several things, including camera shake, depth-of-field, digital noise and lens focus.

Image sharpness can be obtained through optimal focus. AF-Area modes determine how a focus point is selected when in autofocus mode. To select the AF-area mode, hold the AF mode button and rotate the main command dial through the menu. Depending on the model, most cameras have 11 focusing points.

Cameras typically have 3 focus modes: single servo AF, continuous servo AF, and quto-focus. The AF or auto-focus modes focus the images automatically when the shutter is pressed halfway down. The auto focus modes can also be selected by holding the AF button and rotating the main command dial.

Single servo AF is best suited for photographing subjects that are not moving. When focus is achieved the AF point which achieved focus will flash in red, and the focus confirmation light in the viewfinder will also light.

The continuous servo AF mode is best for shooting moving subjects. This mode is for moving subjects when the focusing distance keeps changing. While you hold down the shutter button halfway, the subject will be focused continuously.

Choose single-servo AF for landscapes and other stationary subjects. Continuous-servo AF may be a better choice with erratically moving subjects. Manual focus is recommended when the camera is unable to focus using auto focus.

The last of the focusing modes is the Manual focus or MF mode. Moving the focus switch on the lens to M – manual focus mode - gives you the control to manually focus on any subject through the viewfinder by using the focus ring on the lens.

If you are mastering the focus modes and still seeing poor focus, it may be from camera shake. This happens when the camera moves while the shutter is open, exposing the image sensor. Always try to steady the camera. Holding it with two hands and pressing the viewfinder gently against your face will help. You can also lean against something or use a tripod, a monopod, or even a beanbag to steady the camera.

You might also try reducing the effect of camera shake by selecting a fast shutter speed. This reduces the amount of time the image sensor is exposed to shaky conditions.

A helpful rule of thumb is to set your shutter speed to one over the focal length.

This means if the focal length of your lens is 300 millimeters, for example, you should set your shutter speed to at least 1/300 of a second. If the focal length is 30 millimeters, you might get by using a shutter speed as low as 1/30 of a second.

Let’s try practicing with different focusing modes and achieving optimal image sharpness.

Assignments

First, simply switch through the focus modes and focusing points and see the changes in the viewfinder. Do not take any images just notice the different focus points being selected. Press the shutter halfway and see what happens with the focusing points.

Take a picture in single servo mode. This should be a stationary object. You can photograph a portrait subject or try finding some nature you like, such as a flower or plant.

Set your camera to continuous servo AF mode. Your camera will now continuously focus, since your subjects are moving. A sports game or a busy street would be an ideal place to practice with continuous mode. While you are capturing these images with the different focusing modes notice the parts of the image that are sharp and those that are not as clear.

After practicing with the first two modes switch to manual mode. You might want to start manually focusing on a stationary object.

For experimentation purposes and more practice set your camera to a low shutter speed. Hold your camera without using a tripod and take a photograph of a person. Now, put your image on a tripod and capture the same image. Next, increase your shutter speed and take a picture of the same subject. Compare your last two shots to your first. The last two shots should appear sharper than the first image that was taken without a tripod and a low shutter speed

Creating Image Sharpness

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:46:41 GMT

Image Sharpness

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Another important principle for taking a great picture is image sharpness.

Image sharpness is affected by several things, including camera shake, depth-of-field, digital noise and lens focus.

You might also try reducing the effect of camera shake by selecting a fast shutter speed. This reduces the amount of time the image sensor is exposed to shaky conditions.

Let’s try practicing with different focusing modes and achieving optimal image sharpness.

Assignments

First, simply switch through the focus modes and focusing points and see the changes in the viewfinder. Do not take any images just notice the different focus points being selected. Press the shutter halfway and see what happens with the focusing points.

Take a picture in single servo mode. This should be a stationary object. You can photograph your portrait subject from early or try finding some nature you like, such as a flower or plant.

Set your camera to continuous servo AF mode. Your camera will now continuously focus, since your subjects are moving. A sports game or a busy street would be an ideal place to practice with continuous mode. While you are capturing these images with the different focusing modes notice the parts of the image that are sharp and those that are not as clear.

After practicing with the first two modes switch to manual mode. You might want to start manually focusing on a stationary object.

For experimentation purposes and more practice set your camera to a low shutter speed. Hold your camera without using a tripod and take a photograph of a person. Now, put your image on a tripod and capture the same image. Next, increase your shutter speed and take a picture of the same subject. Compare your last two shots to your first. The last two shots should appear sharper than the first image that was taken without a tripod and a low shutter speed

Creating Image Sharpness

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:07:26 GMT

Image Sharpness

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Another important principle for taking a great picture is image sharpness.

Image sharpness is affected by several things, including camera shake, depth-of-field, digital noise and lens focus.

You might also try reducing the effect of camera shake by selecting a fast shutter speed. This reduces the amount of time the image sensor is exposed to shaky conditions.

Let’s try practicing with different focusing modes and achieving optimal image sharpness.

Assignments

First, simply switch through the focus modes and focusing points and see the changes in the viewfinder. Do not take any images just notice the different focus points being selected. Press the shutter halfway and see what happens with the focusing points.

Take a picture in single servo mode. This should be a stationary object. You can photograph your portrait subject from early or try finding some nature you like, such as a flower or plant.

Set your camera to continuous servo AF mode. Your camera will now continuously focus, since your subjects are moving. A sports game or a busy street would be an ideal place to practice with continuous mode. While you are capturing these images with the different focusing modes notice the parts of the image that are sharp and those that are not as clear.

After practicing with the first to modes switch to manual mode. You might want to start manually focusing on a stationary object.

For experimentation purposes and more practice set your camera to a low shutter speed. Hold your camera without using a tripod and take a photograph of a person. Now, put your image on a tripod and capture the same image. Next, increase your shutter speed and take a picture of the same subject. Compare your last two shots to your first. The last two shots should appear sharper than the first image that was taken without a tripod and a low shutter speed

Using Color in Photography

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:24:16 GMT

Color

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

In photography it is a good practice to look for colors that look good together. Lets take a look at color theory and how you can apply some artistic principles to your photography.

The basic primary colors are red, yellow, and blue. When primary colors are blended of equal parts they produce secondary colors. These colors are orange, green, and violet. When secondary and primary colors are blended they produce tertiary colors. These colors are red-orange, red-violet, yellow-orange, yellow-green, blue-violet, and blue-green.

Together these colors make up the color wheel. The color wheel is a reference for the relationships of color and their interactions. By mixing these colors together you get an infinite number of colors.

Color variety is also influenced by the amount of white, black, and grey that is added to the color. When white is added to a color it is called a tint. When black is added to a color it is called a shade. When grey is added to a color it is called a tone. By the addition of tints, shades and tones, single colors can be blended to make literally millions of sub colors.

When, tints, shades, and tones are added to the color wheel it makes up the range of colors we see everyday.

Relationships between colors are called color schemes. There are many different types of color schemes, but we will only focus on a few of the most commonly used. Many times in photography, the color scheme is given to you; however it is good to recognize the strengths of each situation.

There are four common color schemes used in photography; monochromatic, complementary, triadic, and adjacent. Each scheme gives representation to a photograph and conveys different meanings.

Monochromatic color schemes are a one-color scheme using different tints, tones, and shades. This scheme is often viewed as clean and elegant. This color scheme is often used to establish an overall mood in your photographs.

The complementary color scheme is colors opposite each other on the color wheel. This scheme is visually contrasting, providing liveliness and drawing utmost attention. It is wise to choose one dominant color and the second as an accent for more balance. Photographing cool colors against warm usually produces the best results.

Triadic color schemes hold three colors equally spaced around the color wheel. Although often complex, this scheme is harmonious and easily retains balance. When using a triadic color scheme in your photography find subjects where one color is used in larger amounts than the others.

Adjacent color schemes (also known as analogous) uses colors next to each other on the color wheel. This scheme makes photographs appear richer than the monochromatic scheme but not as vibrant as the complementary.

These schemes may be hard to spot or put together within your images, but they can all enhance your photographs when used correctly.

Assignments

These assignments provide different practice with color schemes. Don’t forget that these color schemes can vary with tints, tones, and shades and the options are endless.

Take photographs from each color scheme: monochromatic, complementary, triadic, and adjacent.

Once you have taken basic photographs using the color schemes try using the same color schemes with different colors. For example, if you used purple and yellow for your first assignment, try capturing a photograph with the complementary colors green and red, or orange and blue.

Using Color in Photography

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:08:52 GMT

Color

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

In photography it is a good practice to look for colors that look good together. Lets take a look at color theory and how you can apply some artistic principles to your photography.

When, tints, shades, and tones are added to the color wheel it makes up the range of colors we see everyday.

There are four common color schemes used in photography, monochromatic, complementary, triadic, and adjacent. Each scheme gives representation to a photograph and conveys different meanings.

These schemes may be hard to spot or put together within your images, but they can all enhance your photographs when used correctly.

Assignments

These assignments provide different practice with color schemes. Don’t forget that these color schemes can vary with tints, tones, and shades and the options are endless.

Take photographs from each color scheme: monochromatic, complementary, triadic, and adjacent.

Once you have taken basic photographs using the color schemes try using the same color schemes with different colors. For example, if you used purple and yellow for your first assignment, try capturing a photograph with the complementary colors green and red, or orange and blue.

Using Line in Photogrpahy

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:15:18 GMT

Line

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Lines can be seen in all works of art, but are very powerful elements in photography. Lines in your photography create dynamics and lead viewers into a photo. They are said to “divide, unify, and accent” certain parts of a photo. The three most common lines used in photography are horizontal, vertical, and diagonal. These lines can be translated into leading lines, another important element of your photographs.

Horizontal lines often denote a sense of rest and peace. Horizons are a prime example of a horizontal line. You can notice that many horizons give a calming and stable feeling, one you can capture in your photos. Generally, you should not place a horizon in the middle of your image. Instead, place them in the upper or lower third of your frame. Not only are horizons a good example of horizontal line in photography, but you can also photograph numerous horizontal lines in one frame. These will create rhythms or patterns.

Vertical lines often give a sense of attitude, strength, power, and growth. Skyscrapers and trees are good subjects to portray vertical lines. Just as with horizontal lines, the rule of thirds is important when photographing vertical lines. Also, try to keep your vertical object in line with the side of your image. Vertical lines repeated in patterns can give a great impact to your photos, especially if they are contrasted with other shapes.

The third most common form of lines in photography is diagonal lines. Diagonal lines give viewers a sense of direction and movement through action. They also enhance a photographs feeling of depth and perspective. Diagonal lines are useful in leading a viewer’s eye to your subject. Be careful not to split your photograph into two with a diagonal line from corner to corner. Intersecting diagonal lines going different ways add the feeling of action to your photo.

And, just as numerous vertical and horizontal lines add patterns to your images, diagonal lines do the same.

Leading lines can create energy and movement in your photographs and can be nearly anything: railroad tracks, a sidewalk, a river, or even a shadow. Leading lines should lead the viewer’s eye to another point in the image.

This image demonstrates the use of leading lines.

The three most common types of lines in photography, horizontal, vertical, and diagonal can all enhance certain elements of your photographs and add different dynamics respectively. Use these lines as leading lines in your photographs to direct the viewer to a point of interest. The horizon line is also commonly used in photography. It is usually placed in the top or bottom third of your photograph. Remember to always keep the horizon line straight.

Assignments

Choose one type of line and capture an image that tells a story. For example, if you decide to photograph a vertical line your picture should give the viewer a sense of strength, power, growth, etc.

Take a photograph using more than one line in the same image.

Use leading lines to take a portrait. You will most likely need to move your subject to position them with leading lines. The leading lines in your portrait should lead the viewer’s eye to your subject.

Using Line in Photogrpahy

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 20:57:14 GMT

Line

And, just as numerous vertical and horizontal lines add patterns to your images, diagonal lines do the same.

This image demonstrates the use of leading lines.

Assignments

Choose one type of line and capture an image that tells a story. For example, if you decide to photograph a vertical line your picture should give the viewer a sense of strength, power, growth, etc.

Take a photograph using more than one line in the same image.

Use leading lines to take a portrait. You will most likely need to move your subject to position them with leading lines. The leading lines in your portrait should lead the viewer’s eye to your subject.

Using Line in Photogrpahy

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 20:48:44 GMT

Line

And, just as numerous vertical and horizontal lines add patterns to your images, diagonal lines do the same.

This image demonstrates the use of leading lines.

Assignments

Choose one type of line and capture an image that tells a story. For example, if you decide to photograph a vertical line your picture should give the viewer a sense of strength, power, growth, etc.

Take a photograph using more than one line in the same image.

Use leading lines to take a portrait. You will most likely need to move your subject to position them with leading lines. The leading lines in your portrait should lead the viewer’s eye to your subject.

Using Line in Photogrpahy

Rob — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 20:45:28 GMT

Line

And, just as numerous vertical and horizontal lines add patterns to your images, diagonal lines do the same.

This image demonstrates the use of leading lines.

Assignments

Choose one type of line and capture an image that tells a story. For example, if you decide to photograph a vertical line your picture should give the viewer a sense of strength, power, growth, etc.

Take a photograph using more than one line in the same image.

Use leading lines to take a portrait. You will most likely need to move your subject to position them with leading lines. The leading lines in your portrait should lead the viewer’s eye to your subject.

Using Line in Photogrpahy

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:09:24 GMT

Line

And, just as numerous vertical and horizontal lines add patterns to your images, diagonal lines do the same.

This image demonstrates the use of leading lines.

Assignments

Choose one type of line and capture an image that tells a story. For example, if you decide to photograph a vertical line your picture should give the viewer a sense of strength, power, growth, etc.

Take a photograph using more than one line in the same image.

Use leading lines to take a portrait. You will most likely need to move your subject to position them with leading lines. The leading lines in your portrait should lead the viewer’s eye to your subject.

Shooting Macro Photography

Landon — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 19:13:58 GMT

Macro Photography

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Macro photography is known as being “close-up” photography. Images appearing to be life-size or larger can be classified as macro photography. Shooting close up can really capture the fine details of subjects that may otherwise be overlooked.

Having the right lens is essential for shooting exceptional macro shots. Telephoto lenses are acceptable, but a macro lens will give you the best return.

To be able to focus on the most important and appealing part of your subject it is best to use a tripod to avoid camera shake. Focus is very important in shooting close-ups. If you are shooting a close up of an insect remember to keep their eyes in sharp focus. You also may want to use a somewhat fast shutter speed since getting this close to a subject is susceptible to even more noticeable motion blur. Since you will be using faster shutter speeds it is important to use as much available light as you can, and you may need to use your flash-possibly a lens-mounted ring flash.

Other tips to remember when shooting macro are to avoid cluttered backgrounds. They can take away from your shot, since you are trying to focus on the detail of the subject.

Assignments

Practice makes perfect when it comes to macro photography. Find subjects with a lot of detail that you would like to shoot close-up. Practice with slower shutter speeds, optimal focus, and find the best light to enhance your images.

Shooting Macro Photography

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:01:07 GMT

Macro Photography

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

Having the right lens is essential for shooting exceptional macro shots. Telephoto lenses are acceptable, but a macro lens will give you the best return. Any lens should typically have a range of 200mm.

Other tips to remember when shooting macro are to avoid cluttered backgrounds. They can take away from your shot, since you are trying to focus on the detail of the subject.

Assignments

Practice makes perfect when it comes to macro photography. Find subjects with a lot of detail that you would like to shoot close-up. Practice with slower shutter speeds, optimal focus, and find the best light to enhance your images.

Metering

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:08:02 GMT

Metering

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It is important to control the amount of light your camera lets in.

You can measure light by using your camera’s light meter. By measuring the light in each part of the frame, you’ll get a sense for how bright or dark the various areas are. If an area is too bright, it will be “clipped” by the image sensor and appear completely white. If an area is too dark, it will appear grayish and full of noise.

There are three ways you can measure light to help set exposure. These are the camera’s metering modes. To access the meter modes, simply press and hold the metering button located next to the shutter button while turning the main command dial.

The center-weighted average metering mode meters the entire frame but assigns the greatest weight to the area in the center of the frame.

The middle setting on the dial is the 3D color matrix-metering mode. When measuring light in this mode, the camera meters a wide area of the frame and sets exposure according to the distribution of brightness, color, distance, and compensation for natural results.

Spot metering used to measure light in a specific part of the subject or scene. The metering is weighted at the selected focus point covering about 2% of the frame. This helps ensure that the subject will be correctly exposed even when the background is much brighter or darker than the subject.

During these next assignments find an area that is not consistently lit. Perhaps your backyard offers different amount of light in shade, direct sunlight, or under an awning. Also, try different lighting scenarios. For example, find fluorescent light, natural light, or even tungsten light.

Assignments

In this setting select the center-weighted metering mode on your camera. Capture images using this metering mode in each lighting scenario and different lighting conditions.

Now turn the dial to the 3D color matrix-metering mode. As you did with center-weighted metering, take pictures in this mode under every lighting condition and scenario.

In spot metering mode take numerous photographs in as many lighting conditions and scenarios you have convenient access to.

After you finish taking pictures using the three metering modes, compare them. See if there are noticeable differences with each mode in the comparable scenario. By practicing and comparing these images you are learning how to measure light coming into your camera.

Using Aperture

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:06:06 GMT

Aperture

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Aperture and shutter speed go hand in hand. It is best to look at them in terms of a triangle, with ISO being the third point. We will review ISO after aperture.

Aperture is related to shutter speed in a similar way. If the aperture is small, you’ll need to have a slower shutter speed to gather enough light to create the appropriate exposure. If the aperture is large, however, you’ll need to have a faster shutter speed to create the same effect.

It’s also important to understand the secondary effects of aperture. A small aperture not only allows less light to reach the image sensor, but it also makes the entire scene appear sharper and more in focus.

This optical phenomenon is called a long depth-of-field. It’s especially useful when you want everything in the viewfinder to be sharp and in focus.

A large aperture has the opposite effect—only your selected subject will be in focus. This phenomenon is referred to as a short depth-of-field.

Portrait photography uses a short depth-of-field extensively because it focuses attention on the subject.

Also, both shutter speeds and apertures have a standard series of settings called “stops.”

Opening the aperture by one stop will double the light that reaches the sensor. Similarly, speeding up the shutter by one stop will cut the light that reaches the sensor in half.

By opening the aperture one stop and speeding up the shutter one stop, you’ll keep the exposure constant.

Opening the aperture by two or three stops and slowing the shutter by two or three stops will have the same effect on exposure—it won’t change. The amount of light that reaches the sensor will remain constant and the pictures will be just as light or dark as before.

What does change, then? Well, the depth-of-field will change, and a moving subject will be either frozen or blurred. Understanding “depth-of-field” will help give you more creative control over your photography and the know-how to take your pictures to an advanced level

Assignments

This time, instead of adjusting your shutter speed to take a portrait try manipulating your aperture to get a short depth-of-field. This larger aperture should put more attention on the subject and blur the background.

Again, landscapes have the opposite feel. Find a landscape you believe would be appealing with everything in focus. Use a long depth-of-field so everything is in focus. Try adjusting your aperture to achieve the optimal amount of focus and minimal depth-of-field in this case.

Using Automatic and Manual Settings

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:05:42 GMT

Automatic & Manual Settings

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You can shoot in automatic mode or manual mode on your camera. It is important to understand both.

First, notice the green rectangle located on the mode dial on top of your camera. If you do not see the rectangle you should see the word “AUTO.”

Select this mode. Your camera will now select all exposure settings for you, simply point and shoot your image. Keep in mind shooting in this mode will apply generic settings but may not compensate for all lighting conditions, like manual mode.

Another automatic mode on the mode dial is portrait mode. This is usually represented by a silhouette icon. In portrait mode the camera selects a large aperture (a small f-stop), which will cause a sharp focus on your selected subject while leaving the background blurred. This type of picture is considered a short depth of field picture, because there are parts of the picture that remain out of focus.

The next automatic mode we’ll look at is the landscape mode. This mode is represented by a mountain icon. In landscape mode the camera automatically selects a large aperture number like F 16 which creates a large depth of field, keeping everything in focus.

The next auto mode is the close-up or macro setting which is usually represented by a flower icon. This setting keeps the aperture at a low or medium setting, which keeps the up-close image in clear focus and leaves a blurred background.

The next mode is the sports setting, represented by the action figure. In this setting the camera’s shutter will be set at a higher “faster” number, in order to help capture fast moving objects with minimum motion blur.

The first is the Night Scene mode on your camera control’s the flash. It sets a slow shutter speed with a flash to illuminate the foreground and background.

The last automatic setting we’ll look at is the flash off option; this allows you to disable any internal or external flash when you want to take a picture with a slow shutter speed or super fast shutter speed.

Remember that when you use the cameras automatic modes you are putting some limitations on your camera’s ability. Complete the assignments below to understand your camera’s automatic settings. After you feel comfortable with these we will then move on to learning about the manual settings.

Assignments

Search around your neighborhood for ideal landscape photography. Picture the image in your head with everything in focus. Unless you are lucky enough you may have to travel to a particular location. Mountains and lakes look great with everything in focus. Use your imagination and shoot in landscape mode.

In portrait mode, take a picture of a subject. Portraits do not have to be people; your dog can be a subject for example. Review your pictures after each shot and notice how your subject is in sharp focus and the background is blurred. Experiment with different backgrounds and see how it changes your image.

Find a subject in low light and record how the night scene mode affects the lighting of the foreground and background.

Take shots with the remaining automatic settings. Pay close attention to how the images differ between each setting.

Manual

The manual settings of your camera are represented with letters also on the mode dial.

The first manual setting is the Program Auto Exposure mode, which is marked with the letter P on the mode dial. This mode is similar to the auto mode, but program auto mode lets you access some of the manual controls on the camera like setting the ISO, or selecting a particular aperture and shutter speed combination.

The next manual mode setting is represented by an S or Tv. This is the cameras shutter priority setting. In shutter priority the camera will calculate the aperture based off the shutter speed value you select. It also takes into account your set metering method and ISO setting.

The next manual mode is aperture priority mode and is represented an A or Av. In this mode you will select the aperture or f-stop and the camera will calculate the correct shutter speed for the exposure (this mode also takes into account your metered value and ISO setting).

Another creative shooting mode on the mode dial is the M mode or manual mode. This mode gives the user complete control over the camera. In this mode you will set your own aperture value, shutter speed, ISO and metering setting. This mode enables you to adapt whatever scheme you want to capture your picture. The more you practice shooting pictures in the manual modes, the more you will see improvement in your pictures.

Complete the assignments below to gain a better grasp of manual mode shooting.

Assignments

Shoot images both with shutter priority and aperture priority. This time don’t pay as much attention to the quality of your images. Look for the differences in each mode and how it is differing between your situations. Shoot moving subjects such as animals or cars in each mode and record the differences. Experiment with different lighting situations to notice the changes.
After using these manual modes to control your ISO, aperture, and shutter speed turn to full manual mode. Practice is your best friend at this point. Instead of shooting particular situations in this mode keep your camera by your side and shoot anything that may strike your eye; this is the best form of practice. Keep shooting in manual mode and see your images improve.

Indoor Photography vs. Outdoor

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:02:58 GMT

Indoor vs. Outdoor

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Outdoor

In outdoor conditions a shaded area would be best. The shade that the trees provide will help your subjects look more natural in the photos. If you place them in the shade they won’t squint their eyes like they would if they were placed in the direct sunlight. Also, the shady area will produce fewer shadows and smoother, more even skin tones.

One way to give your photo this “boost” is to add a little light and depth with a reflector. A reflector is simply an object that “bounces” light from the light source to your subject. In this scenario, a reflector would “bounce” the light from the sun onto the subject’s face. You can pick up a reflector from almost any camera store.

If you decide to take your pictures in direct sunlight and notice harsh shadows there are things you can use to reduce these shadows. You can use your reflector to bounce more light to your subject’s face. The light will help fill in the shadowed areas. You can also use your camera’s built-in flash. The flash will fill in shadows, revealing more facial features.

If you are outside and notice a lot of backlight behind your subjects you can first use your camera’s flash. It will compensate for the lack of light falling on your subject’s and return proper exposure. Another option to help fix your backlit subjects is to adjust your aperture and shutter speed to properly expose the subject and not the background. The background in the photo will appear very bright, but the subject will be properly exposed.

Sunlight moves and changes in predictable ways throughout the day. If you have been noticing a beautiful building that is lit by full sun in the morning, keep in mind it will have shade in the afternoon. Learning to watch the way sunlight moves will help you take great pictures in locations that have beautiful ambient light. So, next time you see a great spot for taking pictures, make a note of the lighting conditions and the time of day.

Another thing to remember about outdoor photography is that cloudy days are good! Don’t get discouraged if it is overcast on a picture day. The clouds will actually make the light in your photos better. Overcast days diffuse the sunlight, making shadows softer and skin tones more even.

The best lighting for photography is just after sunrise and right before sunset. Harsh midday light can make your subjects squint or create shadows on your subjects face, so if you're taking pictures outside in the afternoon, remember to find a shady spot.

Indoor

The best light to use in an indoor setting will most often be the sunlight from the window. If you use it well, window light has all the beautiful qualities of sunlight in outdoor shaded areas. Taking pictures using the window light in the room will make your subject’s skin look natural and smooth. If you are not photographing people it can enhance, for example, a cat’s whiskers by shining light onto the cat’s face.

If you find yourself indoors with no sunlight available the best way to get properly exposed pictures is to change the ISO to a higher number. You’ll probably get some noise in your pictures, but you’ll get better exposure than you would at a lower ISO. Remember to pay special attention to your aperture and shutter speed so that you’ll have a good exposure as well as crisp, sharp pictures. However, if you are in a setting where flash is acceptable this will compensate for your lack of existing light.

Assignments

Locate a shady area in your backyard or at a local park and take a person with you as your subject. You will notice they are not squinting in the shade but their face may appear dark. Make sure you have a reflector with you to practice bouncing light from the sun into your subject’s face. Work on positioning the reflector to gain even light onto the subjects face.

Move your subject to direct sunlight. Experiment using your camera’s flash in this situation to fill in their facial features so they are not uneven due to the sun and shadows.

Move to a place outdoors (whether in your backyard, a park, or elsewhere) and find a place that is heavily backlit. This will help you to continue practicing with your camera’s flash, shutter speed, and aperture to properly expose the subject.

Compare all of your outdoor photographs to discover the best settings for each situation.

On a sunny day find a window in your house letting in a good amount of light. Position a subject next to the window. This can be a pet, your child, or even a piece of fruit. Try capturing the subject from different angles and moving the subject to different positions within the sunlight.

RAW vs. JPEG

PhotoBurbia — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:01:44 GMT

RAW vs. JPEG

(brought to you by QuickPro Camera Guides)

You can save your picture into two file types, RAW and JPEG. Let's discuss the differences and options available.

JPEG uses the least amount of room on your memory card. To fit more photographs on the memory card, the JPEG format compresses the file.

You can view JPEGs as much as you want on your camera or computer without losing any of the image quality. You'll lose some quality if you resave them on your computer. The more often you resave them, the more you'll notice the difference in quality. You don't lose quality if you just copy or move JPEG's on your computer.

Unlike JPEGs, RAW files are not compressed. Because RAW files include more information, these files also take up more space on your memory card. RAW files are large compared to JPEGs. You can take pictures solely in RAW format, or you can set your camera to shoot in both RAW and JPEG formats at the same time.

It's good to understand this extra information if you want to edit your photos with software or make really large prints. Each camera manufacturer has a slightly different RAW format. Because of these differences, RAW files can be incompatible with some photo editing software packages. You can, however touch up your RAW photos on the software that came with your camera. You can also edit JPEGs using computer software, but the RAW format gives you more control in the editing process.

Assignments

Take a few photographs in each file type, RAW and JPEG. Do not worry so much about the composition of your photographs as you are with experimenting between the two file types. Print one photograph saved as RAW and one as JPEG. Compare the images side-by-side to notice the differences.

Using these same images open one of each file type into your photo editing software. Experiment with editing the two photographs and pay attention to the limitations the JPEG gives.